As a Peace Corps volunteer in West Africa, I had naturally heard of and been to Lagos, Nigeria; but I had never heard of Lagos, Portugal. Of course, the latter came first and the African Lagos was re-named later by Portuguese explorers. Founded by the Romans at about the time of Christ, the coastal city of Lagos, Portugal is about 200 miles southwest of Lisbon.

We took a combination of buses to get from Lisbon to Lagos. The last one of these lets us off near the Bensafrim River and promenade that fronts most of the city. The canal has a marina tucked into its landward end.

The canal and promenade lead right up to the Atlantic Ocean. We can see Fort Ponta da Bandeira, which lies on one side of the canal. Built in the 17th century to protect the city and fortify Portugal’s coastal defenses, the fort served as the military headquarters of the government of Algarve-the region in which Lagos lies.

There are two lighthouses standing on either side of where the Bensafrim River meets the Atlantic Ocean. The larger of these (at least it looks larger, because it’s closer), the Praia da Batata Lighthouse, is located right next to the fort and is mostly red. The smaller one, the Ponta Piedade Lighthouse, is on the other side of the river. Mostly green, it is said to offer dramatic views of the cliffs and ocean.

There’s not much to the Fort-just a lot of space. An anchor is placed for effect on one of the walkways; otherwise, between the chapel and the sentinel posts, that’s about all there is.

There is a beach on the other side of the river/canal; and, as my girlfriend loves beaches, I am afraid that we are going to head that way next. Fortunately, we find another beach in closer proximity.

At least there is supposed to be a beach on this side of the river. The signs say there is; but all we can see are cliffs. Fortunately, one of the rock formations forms a natural gate to the beach. The Praia da Batata beach (batata means potato in Portuguese) is the closest to Lagos. The rock formations here can get weird and can potentially offer more privacy-if you want to take the risk.

Of course, we walk to our hotel to stash our heavy bags before exploring the promenade, fort, and beach. And, of course, the walk is mostly uphill and on the upper fringe of the city; but the Casa de Moura Hotel is old and has lots of charm. The nearby construction is a drag, however.

The upper city is mostly residential-a few schools, bars, and grocery stores. The real action in Lagos takes place near the river-at least that is where the most touristy streets are located.

In the Praca Luis de Camoes, we find the “Monumento aos Mortos da Grande Guerra” (Monument to the Fallen Soldiers of the Great War). The “Great War” refers to World War I (Portugal was neutral during World War II), which Portugal joined in 1916. The monument, located in the center of the square, is mostly granite and features a large cross, inscribed plaques, and a Portuguese coat of arms. Touching, but I suppose no one notices it as we are over a 100 years removed from that war.

More likely to be noticed is the statue of King Dom Sebastio in the Praca Gil Eannes. This is because it is different from most statues and monuments you see. Set up in 1972, it is modern-looking, painted, and resembles a woman. Sebastian I of Portugal made Lagos into a real Portuguese city and sailed from here a few years later in, what turned out to be, a fatal military expedition to Morocco. Some, disbelieving his demise, expect him to return some day. Maybe Judgement Day.

Speaking of Gil Eannes, there is a statue of him, too, in Lagos. It’s located near the promenade and the Avenida dos Descobimentos. Eannes was a 15th century navigator and explorer who palled up with Henry the Navigator. He was born and grew up in Lagos.

You can still see bits of the old city wall of Lagos. These walls began with the Romans and were since fortified by the Moors and the Portuguese. The walls are not continuous and you can’t walk on them; but it’s nevertheless impressive that they’ve kept them intact for several hundred years.

The Mercado Municipal building is so inconspicuous it is easy to miss. I guess that’s because it caters mostly to locals instead of tourists. The first two floors are dedicated to food products, while the top floor serves as a restaurant.

The Igreja de Santa Maria may not be the most famous or popular church in Lagos, but it is among the oldest. It’s been a place of worship since 1498 (although it took a few timeouts due to earthquakes or fires). You can identify this church by the two bell towers, its white-washed exterior, but mostly by the large square that is right next to it. It’s also adjacent to the Avenida dos Descobrimentos; which happens to be where we are at the moment.

There is some artwork near the river. The blue tile work outside of the Mar d’Estorias Hotel and Restaurant captures the imagination. This place used to be a firehouse.

The fanciful seahorse and octopus occupy the space next to the open square. Of course, the sea and its inhabitants take on an over-sized significance in this seaside city.

Lagos is a party town. Folks come here throughout Portugal and even Europe to party-especially in the summertime. We did not come here to party. In fact, we only visit Lagos as a base to visit the sites in Sagres…and the end of the world.

Musical Interlude: Lagos, Portugal-Ottmar Liebert