The Pan American Highway may not look like much in Peru. It’s just a two-lane road (one coming and one going) through the desert. But this highway is, except for some roads near the big cities, about as good as it gets in Peru and is part of the longest drivable stretch of road in the world-running almost 19,000 miles through the Americas.
Back in the 1930’s when it was built, no one even knew that the section of the desert that the Pan American Highway would pass through contains some of the mysterious Nazca Lines.
It was understandable because most of the lines are less than a foot deep and are not meant to be viewed from the ground. In fact, some of the Nazca Lines were only discovered a few years earlier.
My girlfriend and I had debated long and hard whether to book a flight over the Nazca Lines. This is obviously the best way to see most of the lines; but it is expensive. Ultimately, we decided to content ourselves with the included Peru Hop stop at an observation tower in the desert right next to the Pan American Highway.
We can see only three or four of the Nazca Lines from the top of the tower: a hand, a bird, a lizard, and a tree. Most of the glyphs at Nazca (and there are hundreds of them) would be recognizable to those who constructed them over two millennia ago.
Some suspect that aliens had a hand (or whatever they have) in creating the Nazca Lines; but I think it is much more probable that the glyphs served astronomical or cosmological purposes. After all, their gods lived “up there.”
It is a long 12-hour haul from Nazca to Arequipa, and we arrive in the city early in the morning. After a badly-needed cleanup and snooze, we head out to do some exploring. Arequipa is the second largest city in Peru by population, with about 1.3 million inhabitants. Founded in 1540, it is not only an industrial center, but a historical one. We’re heading by foot (slightly uphill towards the mountains) to the heart of Arequipa’s historical center: the Plaza de Armas.
The grandest building on the Plaza has to be the Basilica Cathedral. Construction of the Cathedral began in the same year that the city was founded; but, due to several earthquakes, it wasn’t completed until 1656. Then a fire and another earthquake took it down again. Sheesh! Anyway, the Cathedral was rebuilt to pretty much what we see today. The interior of the Cathedral is said to be quite simple (at least compared to other Spanish colonial churches); however, we can’t go inside because we are told a Mass is being held. The overflow attendees are outside under a tent.
The Plaza de Armas, itself, seems to be missing the almost mandatory equestrian statue. Instead, there is a weird fountain with an elf-like creature (and pigeons) on the top. The creature’s name is Tururutu, and he is somehow supposed to represent a typical 16th century soldier. If so, Peruvian soldiers must have been very peculiar back in those days.
The Cathedral takes up almost all of the Plaza de Armas; but the masterfully-carved Iglesia de la Compañía, a smaller church tucked in a corner of the Plaza, is quite eye-catching. It actually is older than the Cathedral and was levelled by the same earthquakes.
The Santa Catalina Monastery is, perhaps, Arequipa’s biggest attraction-not just in reputation, but in actual size. It takes up an entire city block and is said to be a city unto itself. The Monastery is so large and overwhelming that, fearing we might get lost inside, we opt for a guided tour.
The Monastery was founded in 1579, and really has served as a convent since then. Many of the nuns who lived here came from the richest and most illustrious families, not only from Arequipa, but from all over Peru.
They must be used to entitled novices and loud tourists here, because one of the first things we see marked on a wall is the word “silencio”-silence.
The Monastery is basically divided into three sections: one for novices, one for superiors, and the last for all the other nuns. The complex used to be all whitish-grey; but now it is quite colorful, with some sections painted in red or blue.
Santa Catalina is so big that the streets are named after major cities in Spain (Toledo, Seville, Malaga, etc.).
There are several courtyards or cloisters, a few kitchens, chapels, dormitories, fountains, gardens, and a common laundry area within the Monastery.
At some point, servants of the rich nuns were banned; so the nuns had to live together, cook, and do their own laundry. Still, some very special and pious nuns had their own quarters. I guess that holiness has its privileges.
Before leaving the Monastery, we buy some “queso helado” (cheese ice cream) at a snack shop next to the infirmary. Believe me, it is tastier than it sounds. Vendors sell queso helado on the streets, too; but the quality is dubious. It’s at least claimed that the nuns, themselves, make the snacks at Santa Catalina.
After leaving Santa Catalina, we pop across the street and climb onto the roof, where it is said that there are amazing views of the mountains and volcanos. They weren’t lying: the views are majestic.
We had looked for San Camilo Market on the day of our arrival in Arequipa. We didn’t find it then, but have no problem today. Built around 1910 by none other than Gustave Eiffel of Eiffel Tower fame, San Camilo is Arequipa’s main market. It is an indoor market that is very crowded, colorful, and lively. There are separate sections for fruit, veggies, fish, potatoes, poultry, meat, household goods, and even souvenirs. Just about anything you would buy at a supermarket, you can find here.
Two days later, we cross over the Rio Chili to visit the Recoleta Museum and Church in Arequipa. Comparisons with the Santa Catalina Monastery are inevitable. This facility is smaller, however, and was built by the Franciscan friars in 1648. Of course, earthquakes impacted this place too, and it has been rebuilt many times.
The collections here are certainly eclectic; although they make some effort to organize them: pre-Hispanic pottery and figurines, Amazonian critters, tapestries, butterflies, toys, stamps, coins, and much, much more. One almost gets the impression that the curators of the museum turned down nothing offered to it.
That is not to say that Recoleta is a typical museum. You will also find here a portrait gallery of Incan rulers and even some mummies.
The gardens and courtyards are lovely, but don’t hold a candle to those at Santa Catalina. Perhaps the Franciscans didn’t have the resources of their rich neighbors.
Recoleta does have its own church, however, instead of just chapels. The choir, bells, and bell tower are impressive-even though the views are not as grand as those at Santa Catalina.
During my previous visit to Peru in 1998, Arequipa wasn’t included in my itinerary. I find the city wonderful-about half way between the modern city of Lima and the ancient city of Cuzco-although all three have colonial antecedents.
You will no doubt notice that our trips to Santa Catalina and Recoleta were divided, not by one day, but by two. During that missing day, we take the opportunity to do a long day-trip to Colca Canyon and other sites. As in Paracas, we are about to witness some of the beautiful wildlife and natural scenery of Peru.
Musical Interlude: “Homenaje Arequipa” – X Dinero