New York City has more attractions, more ethnicities, and (arguably) more things to do than any place in the world. It is truly unique. I had not been to NYC since I was a young man. With my girlfriend expressing an interest to see the city, it was a no-brainer to return to the “Big Apple”. So we packed our bags, hopped on an Amtrak train, and (in a few hours) we were in Manhattan.
After settling into our hotel and eating dinner, our first order of business was to head off to the St. James Theater and take in a Broadway show.
The St. James Theater is almost 100 years old and seats about 1,700 people. It has hosted many of Broadway’s most famous works, including “Oklahoma!”, “The King and I”, Hello Dolly!”, and “The Producers”.
We’re here to see the musical production of “New York, New York”, which (appropriately) explores the city’s role as a “melting pot” of immigrants from all over the world as they become “American”. I had not seen a Broadway play since attending “East Side Story” starring Katharine Hepburn in the early 1980’s, so I was excited about the experience.
The show and the musical numbers were enjoyable as a whole; but just okay. Nothing to knock one’s socks off. Still, returning to our hotel, our appetite to see the city grows.
We begin our first full day in NYC walking to and through City Hall Park-an underrated green space in the city. Long before Central Park and even when the city was still known as “New Amsterdam”, this park served as the Town Commons. George Washington read the Declaration of Independence to his troops right in this very park. It still makes for a lovely stroll. We see our first close-up glimpse of a NYC skyscraper from the park when we spot the Woolworth Building. It was one of the first skyscrapers in New York City and, for almost two decades, it reigned as the tallest building in the world.
Next, we head to the Battery at the southern tip of Manhattan to begin our NYC harbor cruise. There are several ships in the fleet, and they visit both Liberty Island and Ellis Island, dropping off and picking up passengers on a regular schedule. After a long wait in a line among crowds of other tourists, we board one of the Liberty Cruise ships and motor out onto the water.
We choose not to stop at Liberty Island where the Statue of Liberty stands; although we circle around the lady and see her from just about every angle. The Statue of Liberty is, of course, an iconic landmark of not only New York, but the entire United States. It was a gift from France, erected in the 1880’s, and served as a beacon of hope, freedom, and opportunity to the people of the world. I remember as a boy climbing up the inner winding staircase to the crown in my winter clothes. I wouldn’t do that again even if I could.
Our real destination is the National Museum of Immigration on Ellis Island. We had previously visited the Emigration Museum in Bremerhaven, Germany and wanted to compare notes. Many of the people who traveled from Europe to seek a better life in America started their sea journeys in Bremerhaven.
For over sixty years, Ellis Island was the busiest immigration processing station in the country, and nearly 12 million would-be immigrants alit on the island to learn their fates. Of course, nowadays, airports do the bulk of this processing. Long after it closed, the facilities on Ellis Island were converted into an immigration museum-which is free to enter.
Back in those days, the immigration process was long and complex. Papers and health were inspected, and any complications could result in delays, detention, or even expulsion from the country. For many, it was a roll of the dice. However, about 98% of the applicants made it through and either met their families in a waiting area or could wire them-if they had the money.
There was a section of the National Immigration Museum which, not only had photos of immigrants through the years, but also had samples of their belongings-toys, books, clothing, religious icons. I hope that these objects were donated to the museum and not left behind.
Overall, our impression of the museum was meh. Most of the displays consisted of signboards, and there was little that was interactive. When we asked to use one of the computer stations to research specific immigrants, we were informed that, not only would we have to access the database ourselves without assistance, but that we had to pay $10 for the privilege. I guess you get what you pay for-which, in this case, was nothing.
Still, the cruise was a success; if only for the great views of the harbor and Manhattan skyline that it afforded. We even spotted the orange-hued Staten Island Ferry plying the waters.
When we return to the piers at the Battery, hundreds of tourists are still crammed together waiting for the next ship. We take a much-needed respite in Battery Park, resting in blue plastic chairs while others picnic or walk their dogs. This area was once part of the city fortifications. In fact, a fort (Castle Clinton) can still be found here. Battery Park became run-down over the years; but it was renovated in the early 2000’s and once again became a haven of relaxation or recreation for both residents and tourists alike.
Our ferry travels for the day are, however, not over. We hike quite a bit to locate the ferry to Red Hook-a neighborhood in west Brooklyn. The ocean liner Queen Mary 2 is moored not far from where we end up in Red Hook.
Although we walk extensively in Red Hook, we encounter few people and even fewer open restaurants. We wind up eating dinner at a homey Italian restaurant. Apparently, there is not much going on in Red Hook today. In fact, the best part of the experience was another view of the Statue of Liberty and a houseboat which looks like it was converted from old rail freight cars.
Our ferry travels are finally over, and we take a bus and subway combo back to Manhattan. We had promised ourselves not to be overwhelmed by the choices and try to see everything in one day. Even though we have a few more days in NYC, it would be madness to try to do it all. So we are content. A Broadway show, City Hall Park, a harbor cruise, Battery Park, and Red Hook were a good start. Still, we dream about what awaits us next in the Big Apple.
Musical Interlude: On The Town-Leonard Bernstein